duke Kahanamoku – the father of modern surfing. He won multiple Olympic medals and spread the Aloha Spirit throughout the world.
Kahanamoku has several nicknames. ‘The Duke’ was also the ‘Dook’ He was a quiet and peaceful man, always ready to help others. He introduced surfing Australia, and helped get surfboards into lifesaving.
I hardly remember whether I learned how to walk or how to swim first. One of the first things I remember is taking a cracker box board and pushing it ahead of me to swim out into the surf, using it like a surfboard. You can take a small board and go a long way. I used to swim out, turn around and come back through the surf. Afterward, I used a surfboard, of course.